As I stood on the vibrant Plage des Ponchettes beach at the east end of Nice’s Promenade des Anglais, the large pebbles beneath my feet and the salty sea breeze filling my lungs, I was transported back to the ancient days of the salt traders. The air was alive with the sounds of early-morning swimmers and the occasional squawk of a seagull, offering a unique contrast to the bustling traffic on the coastal road.
This bustling beach has been a center of activity for centuries, playing a crucial role in the salt trade during the Middle Ages. The salt was brought ashore by small wooden row boats and then moved to Cours Saleya, a historic marketplace in Nice, where it was taxed and prepared for the journey to Italy. Today, the Plage des Ponchettes is the starting point of the Pagarine Route, a new 159km walking path leading from Nice to the Italian city of Cuneo, tracing the historic steps of the medieval salt traders.
Looking out at this breathtaking view, it’s hard to imagine the toilsome journey these salt traders endured. But now, Sophie Spillaiert, the sustainable tourism officer for Nice Côte d’Azur, has been dedicated to bringing this historic route back to life. Working on a cross-border sustainable tourism project funded by the EU, she has preserved the legacy of this ancient trade that once bolstered the prosperity of Nice and other towns and villages along the route.
The endeavor wasn’t just about salt, though. According to Spillaiert and her colleague Marion Polack, the trade routes also brought back local specialties like chestnuts, cheese, and wine from the mountains, paper from Cuneo, rice from Saluzzo, and fabrics from Piedmont to be sold in Nice. These trails were lifelines connecting the coastal cities with the inland and contributing to the vibrant economy of the time.
The Pagarine Route is not just a hike; it’s a journey through history. The route officially opened in the fall of 2023 and has since become a haven for enthusiastic hikers and tourists. It’s the newest of three salt routes in the region, and I decided to hike part of it to experience one of Europe’s ancient trade routes. Starting from the heart of the city, the route takes you through lush landscapes and challenging mountain passes before crossing the Italian border.
The trek isn’t just a physical challenge; it’s a walk through time. The route is divided into 10 stages, each with its own unique stories and sights. The first stage is a 15.8km ascent from the coast into the hills behind Nice, taking you through ancient streets, shaded avenues, and breathtaking views. As you continue the journey, every turn in the path unveils remnants of the past – from medieval houses to ancient bridges that have withstood the test of time.
One of the highlights of the hike is reaching Saint-Martin-Vésubie, known as “The Swiss Nice” for its lush landscape and natural beauty. It’s the last stop before the grand finale of the hike, where you cross the 2,000m Col de Fenestre mountain pass and step into Italy. The journey concludes in Cuneo, a medieval town that serves as a testament to the historical significance of the salt trade.
As I reached the end of my hike, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of awe and fulfillment. The Pagarine Route isn’t just a walking path; it’s an immersive experience that allows you to walk in the footsteps of ancient traders and relive a vibrant chapter of European history. It’s a testament to the timeless allure of slow, self-propelled travel and the beauty of connecting with the world in a safe and sustainable way. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a nature lover, or simply seeking a unique adventure, the Pagarine Route offers an unforgettable journey through time and terrain.
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